| 2004 Annual Meeting - Abstract
Fast and slow food in the fast lane: Automobility
and the Australian diet
Sarah Hinde, Jane Dixon, Cathy Banwell and Heather McIntyre
A combination of car-reliance and convenience
food has made a major contribution to changing Australian dietary
patterns in the last half a century. Within the context of the
supermarket phenomenon, cars have been relied upon for food shopping,
and convenience has been esteemed for 40 years at least. Evidence
suggests, however, that what we are calling “car-centred
diets” are becoming more pervasive.
This paper will apply a cultural economy perspective
to the Australian car-centred diet. Our approach has been to conduct
a cultural economy audit of car-reliance, which revealed the extent
to which the automobile structures, and is structured by, the
lifestyles and social practices of Australians. We then used secondary
sources and participant observation over six months to explore
the ways in which car-reliance structures dietary patterns including
the provisioning and preparation of food, consumption practices
and products consumed.
The audit of car-reliance revealed how the automobile,
which began as a novel, eccentric and a somewhat inconsequential
technology has, in fact, transformed society to the point where
life without cars in Australia is nearly unimaginable. This transformation
extends to food provisioning, with car-reliance contributing to
the delocalization of food systems, a phenomenon identified twenty
years ago, as well as helping to relocalize them.
Car-reliance is a key feature of the simultaneous
spread and compression of time and space that is characteristic
of late modernity. A key feature of car-centred diets is the presence
of points of exchange that allow the consumer to access food at
almost any point in time and space. Our research has revealed
that the car-centred diet has different manifestations, and we
can identify both the car-centred fast food diet (CCFFD) and its
counter-point, the car-centred slow food diet (CCSFD). Common
to both is the role of automobility in structuring the production,
distribution and consumption of food in Australia.
The essential role of the car gives rise to
two extreme possibilities for how much time and space exists between
the point of exchange and point of consumption:
1. The ability to purchase food, transport it large distances,
and delay consumption for days or months. This feature underpins
the CCSFD, which includes the gathering of produce from farmers
markets, farm-gate outlets, and inner-city specialist providores;
and
2. The ability to purchase food and consume it instantaneously
‘on the spot’ (or, in the car) where practices revolve
around solitary eating by the person-on-the-go, grazing or snacking
24/7, and continuous novelty in products that are, more often
than not, the outcome of sophisticated food technologies.
The paper elaborates the car-centred diet
as depicted in the figure. We will compare and contrast some of
the many discourses, meanings and practices that constitute the
Australian fast and slow food car-centred diets.
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