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Cattle, Trade, and Clandestine
Slaughter
in Oaxaca, Mexico:
Securing High Profits through
Malfeasance and Dissemblance of Information
Daniel Beams
Department of Anthropology
University of Kentucky
Please do not quote from this paper
without permission from the author.
The purpose of this paper is to
examine how cattle traders in Oaxaca, Mexico secure high profits
through knowledge about the contested value of cattle/beef as
a commodity and through malfeasance and dissemblance of information
in the marketplace. Several unique characteristics of cattle allow
traders to earn more from the transaction than is possible with
other types of commodities. First, the use value and exchange
value of cattle vary depending on the annual agricultural production
cycle, the life cycle of the animal, and market demand. Cattle
can be at the same time both a means of production (i.e. draft
power or dairy production), and a product being produced for consumption.
If during the negotiation, the producer primarily takes use value
into account, but the trader sells the beef for its exchange value,
a large profit may be earned. Second, the value of an individual
animal is subjective because its weight and health are hard to
determine in the field and because market prices fluctuate. A
trader who can accurately estimate the value of an animal, but
convince the producer otherwise has an advantage in the negotiation.
Third, the indivisibility of an animal makes it difficult for
the producer to effectively market it for consumption. Fourth,
after the animal is butchered, the past history (and previous
value) of the animal is easily masked. In Oaxaca, local cattle
traders travel throughout the valley seeking to purchase cattle
from peasant farmers at below market price, which they transport
to the city to slaughter and to sell in urban markets. In order
to maximize profits, traders will often buy old, sick, or dead
animals with low use value and often no exchange value (because
government regulations do not allow the slaughter or sale of sick
or dead animals). The cattle are slaughtered clandestinely in
the city and sold illegally in markets where the quality of the
meat can be disguised (i.e. restaurants, sausage makers, or public
institutions). This activity is tolerated only because inspectors
are easily bribed. Traders can regularly double their investment
in several hours. Introduction The purpose of this paper is to
examine how cattle traders in Oaxaca, Mexico secure high profits
through knowledge about the contested value of cattle/beef as
a commodity and through malfeasance and dissemblance of information
in the marketplace. The fieldwork on which this paper is based
was carried out in the summer of 1988. Ethnographic data were
collected through participant observation and interviews at all
levels of the marketing system. This case study illustrates the
entrepreneurial role of middlemen in the market economies of developing
nations. It is presented in the context of the larger theoretical
debate in economic anthropology concerning equity and power in
the production and distribution of petty commodities in the formal
and informal sectors of the economy. Informal Economy The informal
economy (sometimes called unofficial, black, or underground) is
defined as incomegenerating activities that are "unregulated by
the institutions of society, in a legal and social environment
in which similar activities are regulated" (Castells and Portes
1989:12). This does not imply economic dualism or social marginality.
There are strong linkages between formal and informal sectors.
The informal sector of the economy exists because of inefficiencies
in the formal economy. In the ideal market economy there would
be no regulation of any kind and the distinction between formal
and informal would disappear (Castells and Portes 1989:13). It
is difficult to measure or even identify informal economic activity
because it is intricately linked to the formal economy and often
clandestine. The number of people employed in the informal economy
in Latin America is estimated to be 30% to 50% (Castells and Portes
1989:17). The nature of the linkage between the formal and the
informal economy is hotly debated. NeoMarxists of the political
economy school stress how the informal economy is subordinated
to and exploited by the formal sector. According to theorists
such as Moser (1978) and Portes and Walton (1981), the formal
sector is given preferential treatment by governments, while the
labor force of the informal sector is used as a means to reduce
production costs by paying less than it costs to reproduce labor
(Murphy 1990; Roberts 1990). As discussed by Hollier (1985) and
Scott (1985), many economists argue the opposite, that traders
(operating in or out of the formal economy) are able to exploit
market inefficiencies and earn excessive profit margins. Rather
than adopting a specific ideological stance regarding the nature
of the relationship between formal and informal sectors or making
normative judgments about margins of profit, as many researchers
do, this paper emphasizes the heterogeneous nature of informal
economic enterprises and focuses on contextualizing the economic
process. There may be substantial income differences between informal
shop owners, market traders, domestic servants, and day laborers.
It is imperative that the researcher evaluate the specific nature
of the relations of production. The formal model of neoclassical
economics attempts to do this through a rational choice model
of individual action. This model assumes individuals or firms
are profit maximizing, that they are perfectly competitive, and
that information regarding prices and quality is freely available.
The presence of an informal economy indicates that these hypothetical
conditions do not reflect reality. Neoclassical economists would
argue that people participate in the informal sector as a way
to reduce transaction costs and avoid taxation. Although some
activities may be illegal, many are performed within the informal
sector simply because it is more efficient to do so. Economic
Action Contextualized As a criticism of the neoclassical model,
Granovetter argues that it fails to account for how economic action
is embedded within a network of social relations (1992a, 1992b).
The neoclassical model assumes trust and malfeasance are not problems
because perfect competition forces market participants to be honest.
Contrary to neoclassical assumptions, information is not freely
available. Granovetter states that people engage in a network
of social relations in order to seek better information and reduce
risk through trusted trading partners. These cultivated relationships
are, or often become, manystranded, departing from a purely economic
relationship. Thus, not all actions may appear to be economically
rational in the short run. Ironically, Granovetter points out
that while these social relationships are a necessary condition
for trust, they may also create an opportunity for malfeasance.
There are three reasons for this: 1) Given an implicit trust,
it becomes easier to deceive one's partners because they do not
expect it; 2) Force and fraud are more easily pursued in teams
that require a level of internal trust (i.e. elaborate schemes
of kickbacks and bid rigging); and 3) Malfeasance and disorder
may occur on a larger scale when social networks are complex enough
to mobilize a substantial number of allies (Granovetter 1992b:5863).
Because the ultimate purpose of creating social networks is to
reduce transaction costs and improve one's position in the market,
participants in the market may operate within or outside the formal
economy. Formal rules governing transactions favor some individuals
while at times disfavoring others. If the rewards of participating
in the informal sector are greater than the risks of sanction,
then the informal sector will continue to be an important sector
of the economy. In discussing peasant market systems, Geertz (1992)
analyzes the role of information, communication, and knowledge
in exchange processes. He states that in a peasant market system
information is poor, scarce, maldistributed, inefficiently communicated,
and intensely valued. . . The level of ignorance about everything
from product quality and going prices to market possibilities
and production costs is very high, and much of the way in which
the [peasant market system] functions can be interpreted as an
attempt to reduce such ignorance for someone, increase it for
someone, or defend someone against it. . . The search for information
one lacks and the protection of information one has is the name
of the game. (Geertz 1992:227). Along with control of capital
resources, power is gained and maintained through the control
of information. The most persistent concerns are with the price
and quality of goods. In market transactions, one desires to know
as much as possible about the price and quality of the good in
question, while trading with someone who does not know as much,
but who believes that they do (Geertz 1992:228). Thus, we can
see the importance of obtaining trustworthy information from reliable
social networks, while at the same time developing competitive
clientship relations. "Clientelization represents an actorlevel
attempt to counteract, and profit from, the systemlevel deficiencies
of the [market system]" (Geertz 1992:229). Institutional particularities
of a peasant market system make accurate information valuable
when bargaining over price and quantity. Peasant market systems
are characterized by extreme heterogeneity of products, and often,
nonstandardized measures. "In a system where little is packaged
or regulated, and everything is approximate, the possibilities
for bargaining along nonmonetary dimensions are enormous" (Geertz
1992: 230). Analysis of the distribution of information is not
only important in "inefficient" peasant markets. Alexander (1992)
critiques neoclassical economics for not recognizing how information
about product quality is disguised even in developed consumer
markets. In these markets quality is often concealed by packaging
and prices are fixed. Uninformed buyers confront sellers who possess
an expert's knowledge of the products quality and cost. Search
costs to find the best price may be too great to justify the expense
and consumers have little or no bargaining power in relation to
the seller (Alexander 1992). Preston (1992) considers the neoclassical
paradigm an ideological construct that obscures the nature of
power in market negotiations, giving the advantage to producers
over consumers. Hence, it is imperative that economic anthropology
study the distribution of information within market relations.
The Cultural Biography of Beef In order to examine how knowledge
and the control of information can affect market transactions,
this paper addresses the commoditization of beef as it is transformed
from an animal in the field to a steak on the table. In discussing
the "cultural biography of things," Kopytoff (1986) asks how a
thing's use and value may change with its position in its production/distribution
life cycle. "A culturally informed economic biography of an object
would look at it as a culturally constructed entity, endowed with
culturally specific meanings, and classified and reclassified
into culturally constituted categories" (Kopytoff 1986:68). Commoditization
is the process of a thing becoming exchangeable for more and more
things (Kopytoff 1986: 73). In a competitive market economy, it
is assumed that everything is perfectly exchangeable with everything
else through set market prices; however, the culturally defined
value of a commodity may be contested depending on the form the
commodity takes during certain segments of its life cycle. "Large
gaps in knowledge of the ultimate market by the producer are usually
conducive to high profits in trade" (Appadurai 1986:42). Likewise,
gaps in knowledge about the history and quality of the good by
the consumer may be conducive to high profits for the trader.
For example, to determine the value of a cow being used on a farm
for traction or dairy production, the owner must consider the
cow's use value as a means of production, its exchange value as
the product of production, and the transaction costs associated
with maintaining it or selling it on the market. While the use
value of an animal is known, the market value of the animal is
contestable because the weight and health of the animal is not
easily determined in the field. After the animal is slaughtered
the quality and quantity of meat is more easily determined, but
after even further processing, information concerning its past
history (and therefore quality) may be disguised. The following
case study illustrates how cattle traders in Oaxaca, Mexico are
able to, with little capital investment, secure high profits in
the informal economy through: 1) intimate knowledge of the production,
distribution, and consumption life cycle of beef, 2) manipulation
of client relations and bargaining power within an instituted
social network, and 3) through malfeasant behavior and dissemblance
of information. The specific problems addressed in this case include:
1) How traders are able to extract such high rates of profit;
2) How traders bar entry into the industry, thus maintaining high
profit margins; 3) Why cattle traders show few signs of capital
accumulation despite high returns on investment; and 4) The effects
of clandestine trading on producers and consumers of beef. Cattle
Production and Trade in Oaxaca Production Oaxaca, located in southern
Mexico, lends its name to a state, a highland valley, and a city
of approximately 300,000 inhabitants. Beef production is largely
limited to smallscale peasant producers who own an average of
four or five cows and who rarely own more than 15 head unless
they operate a commercial dairy (Bolaños 1988). Raising livestock
is an integral part of this smallscale production. Oxen are used
for traction in the fields and to transport goods to and from
market. Cows are often kept for milk production. Pigs, sheep,
and goats are raised along with cattle as a way to employ family
labor and turn agricultural residues into marketable commodities.
Livestock are valuable assets that protect one's capital accumulation
against inflation and that can readily be converted into cash
when needed. Thus, cattle have both an explicit use value and
exchange value on peasant smallholdings. Cattle are both a means
of production and the product of a production process. Buying
and selling cattle are integral parts of the yearly peasant production
cycle. Oxen are used to plow fields from May (before the rainy
season starts) until the end of June. In July and August after
the planting is complete, oxen are no longer needed and are often
sold. The season just before the harvest is financially hard for
peasant producers because last year's food supplies are usually
depleted. With money from the sale of cattle, peasants are able
to buy several young oxen and still have money remaining to purchase
household staples, livestock fodder, and pay for other expenses
until the new crop is harvested. Young oxen are smaller and eat
less fodder, so they cost less to maintain than large ones. When
the oxen are needed in the field the following year, they will
be large enough to do the work. Market System The peasant market
system in Oaxaca has been well documented by Malinowski and de
la Fuente (1957), Beals (1975), and Cook and Diskin (1976). The
division of labor in this market system is complex and highly
differentiated. Production and exchange are specialized on an
intra and intercommunity basis. In the valley of Oaxaca there
are eight secondary markets that meet in district capitals on
a rotating basis throughout the week and a primary market in Oaxaca
City where the main market day is Saturday (but is open everyday
of the week). There are two main market areas in Oaxaca City (the
old market in the center of town and a new market at the city
edge) and many smaller shopping districts dispersed throughout
the city where meat and other food commodities are sold. Previous
Oaxacan market studies have broadly defined how the market system
operates on a regional level, but none have specifically analyzed
the production, distribution, and consumption of beef. The distribution
of cattle in the valley is intimately linked to this integrated
market system. Associated with every secondary market is a live
cattle market. Peasants from surrounding rural districts bring
in cattle they wish to sell, and traders, mostly from Oaxaca City,
come to buy cattle they will slaughter and sell in the city. Transaction
costs associated with selling cattle in the official markets are
high because peasant producers must often walk great distances
with their livestock and taxes must be paid after the exchange.
Many transactions occur in the informal economy away from official
markets. To lower transaction costs, cattle traders often travel
directly to peasant producers' villages and homesteads, thereby
paying a price below the market value of an animal. The dynamics
of these transactions will be discussed in detail in a following
section. Livestock are slaughtered and beef is sold in openair
market stalls, called carnicerías, in secondary and urban markets.
There are no regulations concerning how animals are slaughtered
in secondary market districts; however, for meat to be legally
sold in the central urban district of Oaxaca City, animals must
be slaughtered in one of three official slaughter houses and the
meat inspected and stamped. It is illegal to purchase uninspected
meat in secondary markets and transport it into the city. This
frequently occurs, however, because consumers believe meat in
secondary markets is of better quality than in urban markets because
there are fewer middlemen and transaction costs between the producer
and the consumer. The cost per kilo may be the same in secondary
markets as in urban markets, but since carnicería owners in secondary
markets often raise the animals or buy them directly from the
producer and do their own slaughtering, they are able to offer
better quality meat than in urban markets and still earn a competitive
profit. Because there are more middlemen in the chain of distribution
between rural producers and urban consumers transaction costs
are higher. Regatones are rural livestock traders who buy livestock
from peasant producers in their village and hold them to sell
either in the secondary cattle markets, or to livestock traders,
called tablajeros, from Oaxaca City. Tablajeros travel throughout
rural districts looking for livestock that they can slaughter
and resell in the urban markets. They generally own pickup trucks
and purchase one or two animals at a time. Tablajeros develop
a network of regular clients from whom they buy, preferring to
deal directly with peasant producers. But if they cannot find
animals at an agreeable price they may purchase livestock from
regatones or from the secondary markets at prices that do not
afford them as high a profit margin as they would like. In the
city, tablajeros have the animals slaughtered at an official slaughter
house for a small fee and then resell the constituent parts to
various clients. The carcass is cut into quarters and sold to
carnicerías, restaurants, sausage makers, etc. The head, feet,
and viscera are sold to middle marketers who clean and sell these
parts informally in the market or to curbside restaurateurs for
making tacos, and the hide is sold to local tanners. Approximately
100 cows a day are consumed in Oaxaca City. Most of these cows
come from peasant production in the valley of Oaxaca (Primer Congreso...
1988). Many beef cattle are produced in southern Mexico, but they
bypass the valley of Oaxaca because transportation costs through
the mountains are high and better transportation routes and markets
can be found along the coastal plains and in Mexico City, which
daily consumes 8000 head of cattle (Farm Leader... 1988:7). Because
tablajeros have high transaction costs, they seek to increase
their profit by purchasing poorer quality animals at lower prices,
but reselling the meat at regular market prices. They are able
to do this because the quality of the beef cannot easily be disguised
after it is butchered. There is no grading of meat based on the
quality of the animal it has come from. When livestock are bought
in the secondary markets, slaughtered in the official slaughter
houses, and sold in open markets, transactions throughout the
distribution cycle take place within the formal sector of the
economy. However, there are great incentives for tablajeros to
operate partially or wholly within the informal sector of the
economy. When tablajeros buy livestock directly from peasant producers
in rural areas, they are operating within the informal sector
because they avoid paying taxes and the transaction is not recorded.
Once in the city they may reenter the formal sector by slaughtering
and marketing the beef through official channels. Tablajeros who
do not slaughter their animals through official channels, but
clandestinely in their homes, are called clandestinas. Many tablajeros
operate clandestinely when the necessity or opportunity arises.
Clandestine slaughter will be discussed more thoroughly in a latter
section. The Union de Tablajeros del Estado is a state wide association
of tablajeros in Oaxaca, claiming several hundred members, which
works for the rights of and controls the actions of tablajeros
(Solución al Desabasto... 1988:4). The exact number of tablajeros
operating in the valley of Oaxaca could not be estimated. A key
informant who often operates as a clandestine slaughterer estimated
that fifteen families in Oaxaca City operate as clandestinas at
least part time. Trading Practices Data for this case study were
primarily obtained through intensive participant observation with
the Garcías, an extended family of tablajeros/clandestinas, and
their clients and associates.1 I was introduced to Amador García
Lopez through his daughter, a journalist whom I met by accident
while simultaneously seeking an interview with a government official
concerning the beef trade. Amador is a tablajero, as was his father
and grandfather. The García family originally came from the town
of Tlacolula about 30 kilometers from Oaxaca. There are now 250
García family members living in Oaxaca. Twenty of Amador's male
kinsman are tablajeros, and many other family members own carnicerías.
The García family is well known throughout Oaxaca for being involved
in many aspects of the cattle industry. Amador learned the trade
of tablajero from his father and by working in the slaughterhouse
for fifteen years. He has been a tablajero for 33 years. Amador
and his wife, Elva, have eight children, four boys and four girls
between the ages of 11 and 26, all but one living at home. The
second oldest son, Javier, lives with his wife and child in a
small house at the back of the family compound. Only one of the
four boys have graduated from high school. Two boys dropped out
early to become tablajeros and the fourth is only eleven. Javier,
who is 19, does much of the cattle buying along with his father.
Amador and the boys do not think a formal education is necessary
to be successful in life. All four of the girls are still in school.
Alicia is in college studying journalism and is planning to become
a lawyer. The second oldest graduated from high school this year
and is planning to attend college in the coming year. The two
youngest girls are in junior high. Their mother, Elva, is well
educated and works as an independent real estate investor. Elva
is striving to give her girls an education so they can rise above
their current socioeconomic condition. The Garcías live in a neighborhood,
called a colonia, off of a main boulevard on the outskirts of
town. The house is constructed in a style typical for Oaxaca.
The main house is made of concrete blocks, stuccoed, and painted
a bright blue. The kitchen, bathroom, and bedrooms open to a central
patio. The living room is large and breezy with many windows and
open doorways. The entire living compound is larger than average
and enclosed by a high wall studded with broken glass around the
top. Other than the main house, the living compound consists of
the married son's house, four rent rooms, several large fruit
trees, pig stalls, a small muddy corral to stable cows, and a
patio for doing laundry and butchering livestock. Elva raises
pigs at the back of the lot. She either feeds them scraps from
their table or slop she buys from a restaurant down the street.
She refuses to sell her pigs to her husband or sons when they
are large enough to slaughter because she says they will not give
her a fair price. Elva said she earns all the money for the family
food and for her girls. She and her husband keep their money separate
because she said the men spend everything they earn on "liquor,
poker and women." Tablajeros Amador owns an old Volkswagen and
his son Javier has a mid1970s Ford pickup with high rails on the
sides. Javier and Amador work together looking for cows to purchase.
They buy livestock from dairies, peasant producers, and markets
within a 50 kilometer radius of their home. Amador said that years
ago they had a larger truck, but lost it in a poker game. They
hope to buy a larger one soon, but for now they can only transport
one or two cows at a time so they stay closer to home. The García's
concentrate their search for cattle in about ten different pueblos
around the valley. Amador knows the countryside and pueblos intimately
and constantly recounts bits of trivia about the people and the
agriculture. To illustrate what transpires during an average work
day for tablajeros, in the following section I describe a day
in the field with Amador and Javier García. At 6:30 on a weekday
morning we all climbed in the VW and sped off to a local military
installation. The Garcías have a special contract with the military
to provide all of their beef. The post was heavily guarded and
at the main entrance a soldier got in the car and escorted us
to one of the military battalions. The captain in charge of kitchen
purchasing met us quite energetically. He and the Garcías seemed
to be good friends. After a lengthy discussion they established
that more beef was needed at the battalion that day. The captain
paid them for meat the García's had delivered several days earlier.
Amador said he prefers to deal in cash so no records have to be
kept or taxes paid. Amador said the military contract is a good
one because the military will accept very low quality beef and
still pay regular prices. Amador said the captain is willing to
accept low grade meat because he gives the captain high quality
steaks for free. Amador said he and the captain do favors for
each other whenever possible. While we were there the captain
told Amador about a large refrigerator good for storing beef that
Amador could get cheap. Amador told the captain about a nice piece
of real estate he had for sale. We all shook hands while Amador
promised to return later that afternoon with fresh beef. Amador
had purchased an old dairy cow the night before for $220, and
when we arrived home some other tablajeros were waiting to buy
the animal.2 Amador and the tablajeros discussed the price for
some time, finally coming to an agreement of $290 paid in cash.
Amador said he could have made more if he had slaughtered the
cow, but since the men were there and ready to buy, he could not
resist a hasslefree $70 profit. Later that morning I accompanied
Javier as he drove the VW several blocks to an urban dairy. It
is owned, Javier explained, by a rich Spaniard who has over 300
cows. We walked around a stall holding three very skinny cows.
Javier carefully surveyed the ugliest one of the bunch, which
had a grotesquely bloated stomach. He pulled hard on its tail
until it staggered and nearly fell. Javier offered the Spaniard
$130. At first the Spaniard wanted $260, but they finally reached
an agreement of $175. Before returning home we stopped at a small
community marketplace where Javier's aunt operates a carnicería.
Javier asked if she needed any fresh beef that day. She did and
they agreed on a quantity to be delivered later and price. While
Javier returned with the pickup to retrieve the cow at the dairy,
I accompanied Amador in the VW as he scouted for cows in several
pueblos near Etla, a rural district adjacent to Oaxaca. First
we stopped at another familyowned carnicería to buy some fresh
beef. Amador explained that to be a tablajero one has to be clever.
He indicated that he would give this meat as presents to the campesinosrural
peasant producershe visited that day. This is smart business,
he said, because whether they have any cows for sale today or
not, they will remember him when they do have cows for sale. We
drove another thirty minutes to the small rural village of Santa
Marta where several hundred people live interspersed among cultivated
fields. We stopped at the first house. The men were not home,
so we left a bag of meat with the women and headed on to a second
house. Again, the men were out in the fields working. The women
explained that it had just started raining and all the men in
the community were out planting corn. After exchanging pleasantries
for a while, Amador gave the women some fresh meat and they quickly
gathered together some homemade tortillas. The oldest woman petitioned
her grandson to help us to find the men in the fields. After a
ten minute walk down a narrow muddy trail we met a man and his
son who were plowing with a stout pair of oxen. The older one
walked over, greeting us at the edge of the field. This campesino
did not know Amador, but neither was he surprised to see him.
He and Amador discussed the price of his oxen. The campesino wanted
$670.00 dollars for each of them. The campesino also had four
dairy cows, but they were not yet old enough to sell. The reason,
the campesino said, the oxen are so expensive is because he still
needs them in the fields. In another month he could let them go
more cheaply. Amador thanked him but said he could not do business
with them right now. We left on good terms and in good cheer.
Amador said he never bargained too hard to begin with because
he likes to leave the door open for later negotiations. We walked
back to the house with the grandson where the women were waiting.
After serving us a platter of fruit and conversing about our plans
for the day, three young women and the grandson piled into the
VW and we headed to another pueblo five kilometers down the road.
We arrived at one of the nicer houses in the community and were
greeted by a woman. Amador asked if she had any cows for sale.
She said she did and led us up a hill behind the house to where
a bull was tied to a tree. Amador remarked confidently to me that
the carcass weighed 210 kilograms. He said tablajeros must be
able to accurately estimate the amount of meat on an animal to
know what it is worth. He and the woman could not come to an agreement
on the price, so Amador said he would come back later when her
husband was home. Amador told me he was sure he would come back
with the pickup and get it, but if he waited to close the deal
he would get a better price. Upon leaving, the woman gathered
us an apron full of peaches from a tree in the front yard and
wished us a happy journey. Amador informed me that this lady was
a regatona. Her prices are a little higher, but she almost always
has cattle for sale. Before driving back to Oaxaca we stopped
and gave three women who were waiting for the bus a ride to the
market in Oaxaca City. Amador explained how important confianzagood
connectionsis to his business. Amador seems to know everyone on
the streets in Oaxaca City. He waves to all the other cattle drivers
and tablajeros we pass. He calls the traffic cops by name. He
has to pay regular bribes to the police because he transports
so many cattle into the city that he should be paying taxes but
does not. He said he knows hundreds of campesinos from whom he
buys cows. He is also good friends with the owners of the private
slaughterhouse in the colonia Reforma Agraria and with the "Registrar
of Livestock" in the state of Oaxaca. To be a successful tablajero
one has be able to manipulate people. Later I went with Javier
to pick up the carcass at the slaughterhouse. Javier took each
side of beef and cut it into four pieces with an ax and threw
the pieces into the dirty pickup bed. We drove back to the military
installation to deliver the beef. The beef, which was weighted
on a large kitchen scale, came to 196 kilograms. The captain paid
Javier $1.75 per kilogram for a total of $343. After Javier sells
the viscera he will make a profit of over $200 for several hour's
work. After dropping me off, Javier returned to the slaughterhouse
to play poker with his friends and recently garnered wages, thus
concluding a day's work. Amador has several methods of purchasing
cows. On one occasion we went to visit a family in the pueblo
of La Raya who might have a pair of oxen for sale. The man of
the house was working in the fields with the oxen, so Amador agreed
to come back later in the evening. On the way back out of the
pueblo Javier drove while Amador leaned out the window yelling,
"¿Se vende yuntas?, ¿Se vende toros?, Se vende animales?," asking
if anyone had any livestock for sale. I found this amusing and
was wondering if it ever worked when a lady came running out of
her house waving at us to come back. We walked through a gate
to a large complex where several families lived. Amador spoke
with the lady who waved him down. She had two pigs, one burro,
a pair of oxen, a cow, and a calf. She was selling one of the
pigs for $310. Amador halfheartedly offered her $155. They could
not compromise on the pig. The lady really wanted to sell the
dairy cow. Her original asking price was $450, Amador offered
$225 and she came down to $360. Amador told me he really wanted
to buy all four cows at once so he could get a better deal. Her
firm offer for all four was $1550. Amador would not go higher
than $1100. He confided that if he waited a day or two she would
come down to his price. It was interesting to watch Amador bargain.
The owner talked about how fat and healthy the animals were. Amador
countered by saying they were ugly and skinny, and that they had
bloated stomachs. Amador told her that at her price he would lose
money on the cows if he butchered them. An ancientlooking man
came outside and insisted that the dairy cow was not his granddaughter's,
but rather it belonged to him and he would not take less than
$36. His granddaughter indicated that he was crazy by twirling
her finger around her ear. Amador said even he would never buy
the cow for just $36 because that would be robbery. When we got
back on the road Amador did not yell anymore, but another woman
stepped out of her house and said she would have one for him if
he would come back in August. Trader's Profit Margins The number
of cows Amador slaughters per week varies greatly depending on
the availability of cattle in the valley. He said this year cows
are scarce because of a severe drought during the past two years.
In a normal year he would slaughter an average of 10 to 12 cows
a week. Amador said he tries to buy all of a campesino's cows
at one time because he gets a better deal with fewer hassles.
He can increase his profit with the least amount of time invested.
It is also more efficient to buy large fat cows because he makes
more profit per animal. He said many times the price of fat cows
is higher per kilogram than the skinny sick cows, therefore, even
though it is more work, he buys the skinny cows. Amador figures
his labor and that of his family is essentially free. He always
looks for the cheapest beef per kilogram so he can make the largest
profit. Almost every cow I saw him buy was a poorlooking, sickly
animal, or already dead. Considering the small investment of both
capital and time, the profit made from being a intermediary cattle
trader can be great. Based on a national study, cattle traders
in Mexico earn an average of $380 per head if they buy the cow
from the producer, slaughter it, and sell the meat to a retailer
(Introductores en Mexico 1988). This figure was higher than what
I observed in Oaxaca. Tablajeros in the valley of Oaxaca pay on
average slightly more for peasant produced cattle than do traders
in the major cattle producing regions. The average price for live
cattle in Oaxaca is approximately $1.10/kg and the average price
for which beef is sold to a carnicería varies between $2.00 and
$2.50/kg depending on the grade of the meat. If tablajeros in
Oaxaca make a profit of $1.10/kg from a carcass and an average
profit of $60 on the viscera, head, legs, and hide, then they
make a total profit of $280 for a 200 kilogram cow. Profit may
vary because it is always a guess as to how many kilograms of
beef are on each cow. The more accurately a tablajero can estimate
the weight of a cow, and the more convincingly he can convince
the owner otherwise, the more profit he stands to make. The price
of live cattle varies greatly depending on how badly the campesino
needs the animals in the field or how badly the campesino needs
cash. For a single transaction, I saw Amador make as little as
$90 on a scrawny dairy cow and as much as $1350 on two pair of
oxen. If the average tablajero sells 10 cows a week at $250 profit
per cow then he will earn $2500 a week. Based on these projected
profits, a tablajero typically earns more in one week than what
an average laborer earns in over two years (in 1988 minimum wage
was $3.50 a day). This projected average income does not include
transaction costs, which will be discussed in a following section.
Clandestine Activities The above profit estimates were calculated
based strictly on tablajeros operating legally. As Amador describes,
even greater profits can be earned slaughtering cattle clandestinely.
The homes of most tablajeros make good cover for clandestine slaughtering
because the typical courtyard in Mexico is usually hidden behind
the house or enclosed by a high wall topped with fragments of
broken glass. The only equipment essential for operating a clandestine
beef operation are running water and a knife. Amador had running
water, but his back yard had poor drainage, so the blood and other
wastes became a foul smelling stagnant pool beneath Elva's pigs.
Most tablajeros learned their trade in the municipal slaughterhouses
before beginning to buy and sell livestock, so naturally they
already possess the skills necessary to butcher a cow in their
own backyard. The fee for having a cow slaughtered in the municipal
slaughterhouse is slightly over three dollars (Hernández 1988).
When a tablajero makes over $250 a cow, three dollars seems to
be a nominal fee. Why would a tablajero want to go to the trouble
of butchering a cow himself (several hours work) when for just
over one percent of the expected profit he can have someone else
do the butchering? Some tablajeros operate as clandestine slaughterers
when they have a cow to slaughter or when they have promised to
fill an order, but for some reason the municipal slaughterhouse
is not open. In 1987 the main municipal slaughterhouse was closed
an average of six days, and as many as eleven days, each month.
Except for Saturdays, tablajeros are never sure when the slaughterhouse
will be open. If a tablajero has promised beef to a customer on
a certain day and finds the slaughterhouse closed, he may slaughter
the cow himself rather than miss a business transaction. Because
of health hazards, municipal slaughterhouses will not slaughter
an animal if it has severe intestinal parasites or tuberculosis,
or if it died before arriving at the slaughter house. If a tablajero
buys a diseased or dead cow he will not take it to the municipal
slaughterhouse because he knows it will be turned away, instead
he butchers the animal in his own home. Since all beef sold within
the city limits of Oaxaca is required to have a stamp of inspection,
a clandestine slaughterer must be selective in marketing his uninspected
meat. The open marketplace is out of the question because meat
is hanging in public view where the stamp can be seen. Plus, the
markets are the first places city health inspectors look for uninspected
beef. Clandestinas must find a place to sell their beef where
it is not seen until it is altered in some manner so that consumers
and inspectors cannot tell if it was originally inspected. Most
clandestinas have secretive informal contracts with restaurants,
hotels, or institutions (both private and public), who prepare
the beef and serve it directly to the public. Clandestinely slaughtered
beef may command a slightly lower price than beef on the open
market, but then dead cows do not cost nearly as much as live
ones. Everyone in Oaxaca whispers about clandestinas in Oaxaca
who are flooding the beef market with contaminated meat. Because
clandestinas operate within the informal economy, it is hard to
estimate to what extent they affect quality of beef on the market.
In an interview in El Imparcial, a Oaxacan newspaper, the administrator
of a municipal slaughterhouse in Oaxaca said he knows there is
a problem with clandestinas in Oaxaca, but since clandestinas
are hidden he could not determine the extent of the problem (CruzGarcía
1988, p. 1). Ironically, the reporter who performed the interview
is Alicia, the daughter Amador García, one of the most well known
clandestinas in Oaxaca. From Amador I was able to learn more about
clandestine slaughtering than I was through the city officials
from whom clandestinas are hidden. Amador said the fifteen or
so families who operate clandestinely, know and look out for one
another. Based on my summer of field work, I estimate that Amador
slaughters approximately one third of his animals clandestinely.
If the city has a structure for controlling illegal meat and clandestine
slaughter operations, why are clandestinas and uninspected meat
such a problem in Oaxaca? The two health inspectors assigned to
meat inspection attempt cover the market transactions of over
300,000 people. They are able to inspect only one sector of the
city a day. The inspectors main strategy for controlling the exchange
of uninspected beef is by the threat of a surprise inspection.
The real reason health officials cannot control the problem, however,
is because the inspectors are readily corruptible. An experience
I shared with Javier illustrates just how easily this is done.
One morning as Javier was carrying home a dead cow in the back
of the pickup, one of the health inspectors saw him and followed
him home. He calmly drove the truck through his gate and shut
it behind him. Several minutes later he walked out into the street
to talk with the inspector. After a friendly chat and an exchange
of several dollars, the inspector drove off. Javier said he did
not know of any clandestinas who had the ability to stamp their
own meat, but if an inspector came around you could certainly
pay him to do so, even if it would not have passed inspection
at the slaughterhouse. Amador said the health inspectors confiscate
only enough beef to make it appear as if they are doing their
job. Six hundred kilograms of beef were reported confiscated from
restaurants and hotels between January and June of 1988 (Tasajo
de... 1988:1). Javier assured me that this is only a small percentage
of the illegal beef actually found and an even smaller percentage
of the illegal beef trafficked in Oaxaca. Amador said the real
skills necessary to becoming a successful clandestina are not
how to butcher livestock, but how to create and maintain confianzagood
connectionswith the proper people. Amador joked about having a
special clandestina permit. By this he meant that, because of
his contract with the military to supply beef, he has special
privileges. Anytime he gets in trouble with health authorities,
he calls his military friends and they bail him out. Amador always
has cash on hand to bribe policemen, city officials or whoever
he has to bribe to continue his clandestina operation. Mario Rolando
Bolaños, secretary to the cattle program in the Rural Development
Office, said there is not a problem with clandestina slaughterers
in Oaxaca. Bolaños said everyone in town whose business it is
knows exactly where cattle are being slaughtered illegally. Therefore,
he said, these operations are not "hidden," they are just "uncontrollable."
Bolaños said he knows they pay bribes to stay in business, but
there is nothing the city can do because clandestinas manipulate
how the system operates. Clandestinas have the confianza necessary
to evade control (Bolaños 1988). Since the García family knew
of my interests, they called me anytime they were slaughtering
a cow in their backyard, or they would tell me later when I missed
one.3 The majority of the García's clandestinely butchered cows
were sold to the military, to restaurants, or to salchicheros,
sausage makers who ground up the meat, disguising its original
condition. Most of the animals were sick dairy cows and a few
of them had even been dead for a while. Cows die by either getting
in accidents (i.e. hit by a vehicle, or gored to death in a stock
pen, etc.) or from poisoning when they eat a particular kind of
grass. When there is little to graze on cattle sometimes eat native
toxic weeds. Neurotoxins accumulate in the animal's fat and when
the animal becomes active or is moved to a new pasture, the toxins
are released, causing drowsiness, twitching and convulsions, followed
by death. Shane estimates that cattle producers in Mexico may
lose five to ten percent of their herd in this manner (1986:21).
Amador said that after cows have been dead several days their
stomachs become bloated, but that the meat is still fine. He buys
these dead cows very cheaply, slaughters them behind his house
and sells the beef as if it were regular meat. I asked if he ever
had the meat inspected and he said never, but he knows it is good
meat, because he does not sell carcasses from dangerously sick
cows. Several days later, Alicia, Amador's daughter, described
how Javier had butchered another cow at home the previous evening;
making a total of three that week. This one, she said, had balls
in its stomach. She said Amador and Javier thought the cow had
tuberculosis. They threw away the intestines, which were partially
green, but kept the meat and sold it to the military anyway. It
was not their fault, she explained. How could they know the cow
was sick before Javier butchered it? They could not just throw
the meat away, Alicia said, because they had over one million
pesos invested in it. She knew the meat might make people sick,
she certainly would not eat it, but what could they do? It had
to be sold. Discussion Trading Strategies Tablajeros and clandestinas
secure higher than average profits from the beef trade through
entrepreneurial management of knowledge concerning beef production,
distribution, and consumption. Barth (1981) describes an entrepreneur
as an innovator who seeks profit. "Innovation for an entrepreneur
must involve the initiation of transactions which make commensurable
some forms of value which were previously not directly connected"
(Barth 1981:56). Barth goes on to state that The big potentialities
for profit lie where the disparity of evaluation between two or
more kinds of goods are greatest, and where this disparity has
been maintained because there are no bridging transactions. Such
disparities can persist where the goods in question belong to
different spheres, and are separated by barriers to the conversion
of valuesbarriers of cost imposed on such conversion through available
modes of trade and production, or sanctions of shame and punishment.
The successful entrepreneur bridges this barrier by designing
a new type of transaction, one which circumvents or otherwise
reduces the costs of the conversion and thus makes it possible
to exploit the disparity of value to make profit (Barth 1981:56).
I quote Barth at length because this passage so accurately describes
how cattle traders secure high profits in Oaxaca. But rather than
being a "disparity of evaluation between two or more kinds of
goods," the disparity is between the evaluation of a single commodity,
beef, whose value is transformed through various dispositions
over its life cycle. As the following discussion will illustrate,
tablajeros and clandestinas overcome barriers to trade between
commodities belonging to differing spheres by reducing transaction
costs through social networks, and through dissemblance of information
and malfeasant behavior. By analyzing the social relationships
along the path of distribution, between peasant producers and
traders and between traders and retailers, it is possible to demonstrate
how traders obtain high profits. We may begin by asking whether
peasant producers act rationally when they sell livestock to traders
at below a price they could obtain in the market. It is important
to distinguish between use value and exchange value. Differences
in livestock prices in rural areas and central markets can be
attributed in part to the increased transaction costs associated
with selling in the market and to a disparity in the amount of
information available concerning the use value and exchange value
of the animal. A report by the World Bank (1976) evaluating cattle
trading practices in Tanzania concluded that a peasant producer's
desire to sell at the "best price" does not necessarily mean at
the highest price. Convenience, monetary needs, or maintenance
of social relations may also affect transactions. By selling to
traveling middlemen, peasant producers avoid the uncertainty of
making a sale in the market (lost time) and of having to pay taxes
on the transaction. Peasant producers possess great knowledge
concerning the use value of an animal on their farm and of the
cash needs of the household. When an animal's productivity drops
because of timing within the annual production cycle or because
of poor health, it may become more expensive to maintain the animal
until it can be sold at a higher price in the market than it is
to sell it immediately to a trader. Likewise, cash may be needed
quickly and selling to a trader assures that the need is immediately
fulfilled. Conversely, an animal's exchange value may be higher
for a trader (especially a clandestina) than it is in the open
market. An extremely sick cow, or a dead one, has practically
no value on the farm or exchange value on the open market, but
since clandestinas are able to dispose of the meat in a profitable
(but illegal) manner, they are the best avenue of exchange. Because
of scarce information, the exact exchange value of an animal is
difficult to determine in the field. A trader's intimate connection
to the slaughter industry and knowledge of current prices often
gives him an advantage in determining the true exchange value.
Being able to accurately estimate the weight of an animal, and
thus its slaughtered value, is important to negotiating a fair
trade. Amador García took pride in being able to accurately estimate
an animal's slaughter value, while at the same time convincing
the owner otherwise. Without an intimate knowledge of the slaughter
industry (i.e. the market value of meat, viscera, hide, head,
and feet) a peasant producer will underestimate the slaughtered
value of an animal and will not be aware of the profit margin
earned by the trader. Traders may also have greater knowledge
of fluctuating beef prices due to rapid inflation. Traders living
in urban areas may simply be able to capitalize on the lag time
for price information to reach rural areas. The establishment
of a patron/client relationship between the trader and peasant
producer can greatly affect the nature of the transaction. Tablajeros
in Oaxaca go to great lengths to establish a personal relationship
with peasant producers that obligate them to future transactions.
As illustrated by Amador García, gifts and favors are often exchanged
apart from the livestock transaction. The establishment of a manystranded
relationship creates trust between participants. But as Granovetter
(1992b) points out, this trust may obfuscate the competitive nature
of the relationship. If a client expects a patron to deal honestly,
it may be easier for the patron to exploit the relationship. However,
if a patron obviously deals unfairly with a client, trust may
be broken and future transactions curtailed. Patron/client relationships
are valuable to both parties because assured transactions reduce
search costs. In Oaxaca, gift exchange was used by both cattle
traders and peasant producers as a way to bind the patron/client
relationship. The inequality of the gift exchange marked the inequality
in power in the relationship. In the case study, Amador gave the
peasants fresh cuts of meat (an expensive luxury item for peasant
households) and peasants gave Amador a token amount of home produce
in exchange. Ortiz suggests that through gift giving, sharing,
and paternalism, patrons foster dependence and deference in their
clientship relations (1992:53). By fostering this unequal relationship,
traders obligate peasant producers to trade with them exclusively
and perhaps at an exchange rate that the peasant believes is unfair
but feels powerless to improve upon. Even though this type of
patron/client relationship and better access to information may
favor the trader over the producer, both parties probably improve
their wellbeing by trading outside the sphere of the public market.
Compared to purchasing livestock, Tablejeros have much less opportunity
to use information to their advantage when selling meat in the
public market. Their margin of profit is determined by how cheaply
they are able to buy the meat from the producer. Carnicerías weigh
their purchases, and the price they pay per kilo is relatively
uniform across the market. Clandestinas, on the other hand, are
able to improve their advantage when selling their meat through
malfeasant behavior (illegally slaughtering livestock) and by
dissembling information about quality through an intricate social
network, what Amador called developing confianza. Confianza is
the mechanism by which clandestinas avoid state sanction and develop
the contacts necessary to market illegal meat. Granovetter (1992b)
discusses how malfeasance is more easily pursued in teams that
require a level of internal trust. In the case example, Amador
developed trustworthy relationships with individuals in positions
to receive illegal meat through gift giving and exchanging favors.
In return these individuals were in a position to hide the origin
of the meat from the final consumer. I do not have the data to
compare the profit margins between the legal trade of tablajeros
and the illegal trade of clandestinas. I surmise that clandestinas
enjoy a higher rate of profit because of the greater disparity
in the perceived value of the commodity between producer and consumer.
Transaction Costs The net profit earned per animal is difficult
to determine because of the many transactions costs that are not
overtly calculated. After transaction costs are calculated, is
the profit earned from livestock trading in Oaxaca appreciably
greater than other types of activities operating with similar
amounts of capital and labor resources? Capital investment is
relatively low compared to the return on the traders investment.
All that is needed is a serviceable pickup truck and several thousand
dollars cash (approximately $5000 total investment). Controlling
for inflation, a typical investment of $5000 dollars, generously
estimated to earn 10 percent annually, would only generate $10
a week in income above the value of labor. A slaughterhouse laborer
in Oaxaca in 1988 earned approximately $21 a week. Assuming equivalent
skills are necessary to work as a tablajero, a typical investment
of $5000 plus value added from labor would earn approximately
$31 weekly. Assuming only 5 cows are slaughtered weekly for a
gross profit of $250 each ($1250), do the transaction costs associated
with being a tablajero or clandestina account for the difference
of $1219? Even generously assuming a transaction cost of $100
per animal, the huge difference in income is still not accounted
for. In the case study, Amador García lived as many middle class
in Oaxaca live, but showed few signs of capital accumulation or
reinvestment of profit to expand the enterprise. Nor were the
profits used to maintain and reproduce the household (which was
mainly accomplished by Amador's wife, Elva). The majority of his
and his son's profits appear to have been spent with friends gambling,
drinking, and on women other than their wives. Are these expenditures
transaction costs associated with maintaining ones position as
a tablajero/clandestina? I suggest that yes, in part they are;
these expenditures help maintain the tight social network and
confianza among peers in the industry, facilitating trust and
the flow of information necessary to succeed as a tablajero or
clandestina. Although, these expenditures may be in excess of
what is necessary to maintain the same profit level, and would
thus be considered "economically irrational" by neoclassical theorists.
This behavior may be explained in several ways. First, work is
not always drudgery. The benefits or costs of an action are not
calculated only in economic terms, but also by the degree to which
they are enjoyable. Many transaction costs associated with maintaining
the tablajero/clandestina social network are considered "fun"
by the participants, and in so being perhaps they are indulged
in beyond necessity. This concept of seeking "fun" in combination
with economic efficiency is mentioned by Ortiz (1992:49) when
she discusses reasons for migration in Colombia, stating that
"workers do not necessarily go to areas where they will realize
a higher real wage. [Y]oung men . . . migrate out of boredom,
to experience other regions, and, hopefully, to find other employment
opportunities." Secondly, the culturally constructed style of
household organization and gender differentiation in Oaxaca may
contribute to how income is distributed and consumed. In the García
family, pooled income was spent at the discretion of Elva, the
female household head. In order to maintain control over personal
income, the men may quickly and purposefully dispose of their
income through activities that enhance their own wellbeing rather
than that of their whole family. A defining aspect of maleness
and a source of prestige in Mexican society (in some sectors)
can be described as "machismo." Machizmo is attained through a
public display of wealth, generosity, and womanizing. Perhaps
machismo is more highly valued among the tablajeros and clandestinas
I interviewed than is maximization of economic profit.4 Barriers
to Entry Since tablajeros earn more than might be expected based
on capital investment and manual labor, do they possess specialized
skills or knowledge that can account for such high profit? If
profit margins are so high, what prevents others from becoming
tablajeros or clandestinas? Both of these questions may be addressed
by discussing how information is controlled. Tablajeros and clandestinas
secure high profits through specialized knowledge about, and the
control of information regarding the production, distribution,
and consumption of beef. Cattle traders' social networks (i.e.
colleagues in the cattle trading business) are the means by which
information is shared and controlled. This can be contrasted with
competitive clientship relations, where information is used as
a tool to increase profits. As the model of entrepreneurship predicts,
we might expect cattle traders' margins of profit to diminish
as others see the opportunity for high profits and enter the industry.
However, the occupation of tablajero/clandestina has existed in
Oaxaca for many years. The Garcías have been participating in
the trade for four generations and slaughtering practices in Oaxaca
City have been regulated since 1910. Barriers to entry related
to the traders' social networks slow the entrance of new participants,
thus helping to maintain a high level of profit. The social network
required to operate as a tablajero is complex (especially for
clandestinas). As the case study illustrates, the technical and
social skills necessary to operate as a cattle trader are handed
down in families. Fathers teach their sons the skills and perhaps
even bequeath territories or social networks to their sons. Markets
for clandestinely slaughtered beef are illegal, may be limited
in scale, and are only accessible through manystranded networks
of social relationships. In protecting the rights of traders,
the Tablajeros Union of Oaxaca may function in a way that limits
entrance into the industry. Persons wishing to enter the industry
without a social network in place would face higher transaction
costs. The lack of information regarding markets and prices, and
the illegal nature of many trading activities would cost new entrants
much more in lost profits and bribes or sanctions than it would
for established traders or their sons. The informal nature and
the complexity of trading transactions may disguise the rate of
return on investment, thus disguising incentives to enter the
industry. Finally, culturally constructed role prescriptions may
preclude certain members of society from entering the industry.
Although many women market meat in carnicerias or buy and sell
constituent parts of butchered animals, I saw no women participating
as tablajeros or clandestinas. Likewise, other social classes
may be socially precluded from participating in these activities.
Conclusion This study has demonstrated that researchers cannot
simply plug numbers into a neoclassical economic formula to determine
how a local economy actually operates. Economic action is embedded
in cultural institutions and networks of social relationships.
Profits are often made through specialized knowledge and by controlling
information, features of the economy that neoclassical theory
assumes are equally distributed. An economy cannot be accurately
portrayed unless the effect of the distribution of power in a
market is considered (access to and control over productive resourcesincluding
knowledge and information) and economic action is contextualized
locally. In this preliminary study, more questions have been raised
than definitively answered. But this study does show that high
profits may be earned in the informal economy without high capital
investment. The ability of participants in the informal economy
to earn an adequate income is strikingly diverse and often depends
on the characteristics of the commodity being produced or sold.
Tablajeros and clandestinas capitalize on the disparity in value
as cattle are transformed from a means of production to a product
of production. They capitalize on large gaps in knowledge about
the "social life of beef" between the producer and the consumer,
and vice versa. The question of whether or not cattle traders
in Oaxaca are exploiting producers or consumers must be answered
in the specific context of transactions. Producers would not enter
into a transaction unless they felt it improved their wellbeing
in some way. Often, trading sick or dead animals clandestinely
is a mutually profitable transaction. Certainly the consuming
public is exploited when they purchase poor quality or even dangerously
unhealthy meat without realizing it; however, the majority of
transactions occur through official channels where consumers are
aware of the quality of meat they are purchasing. Profit is not
as high for trade in commodities where knowledge is more regulated
and freely exchanged. For example, within the beef industry in
Oaxaca, midlevel traders who purchase viscera, head, and feet
from tablajeros in the slaughterhouses control a much smaller
niche in the disparity of evaluation. Buying and selling prices
are relatively standardized and profit is generated from value
added through labor. In one documented case, the initial investment
in head, feet, and viscera was $15, and after approximately six
hours of labor cleaning and marketing the product, it was sold
for a profit of $6.50. This entrepreneurial enterprise earned
double the minimum wage, but was not nearly as profitable as the
work of tablajeros or clandestinas. Other market studies documenting
the profit margins of traders trading in commodities of less subjective
value demonstrate that margins of profit are not as high as in
the Mexican beef industry. Gross margins of profit, as percentage
of sales, in the Mexican beef trade are as high as 68 percent
(Introductores en Mexico 1988). Hollier (1985) reports that net
profits of palmoil traders in West Cameroon ranged between 7 and
17 percent of sales. Scott (1985) reports gross and net margins
of potato traders in the Cañete valley of Peru were 13 percent
and 3 percent of Lima retail prices. Culturally constructed role
prescriptions (along divisions of class, ethnicity, gender) play
a key role in determining who participates in what kinds of market
activities. Cattle traders in Oaxaca are almost exclusively male
mestizos. As documented by Babb (1985) and Seligmann (1989), less
profitable types of trade are often relegated to women or other
groups with subordinated interests. Babb states that vegetable
and fruit sellers in Huaraz, Peru (of which 92% are women) on
average earn about half the daily wage of male agricultural laborers
(1985:295).
Acknowledgments. I thank the Institute
of Environmental Studies of Baylor University and the National
Science Foundation for financially supporting the fieldwork, conducted
in the summer of 1987, which led to my master's thesis and the
writing of this paper. I am especially grateful for the support
and advice of Arthur P. Murphy and Martha W. Rees while conducting
field research and to Thomas Hakansson for his advice while writing
this paper. I am deeply indebted to the García family for making
accessible the hidden structure of the cattle economy in Oaxaca.
Notes
1. Pseudonyms have been used to
protect the identity of people mentioned in this paper.
2. Mexican pesos have been converted
to the value of U.S. dollars in 1988.
3. Amador never personally introduced
me to another clandestina family because he feared they might
become suspicious of my research. However, one day as I was walking
through a suburban colonia on the way back to town when I heard
the familiar death squeal of a pig. I found the sound coming from
behind a high wall and peered between a crack in the gate to see
what was happening. A great big man was finishing the slaughtering
of one pig on a patio while several others in a small pen were
contemplating their fate. Not sure of the reception I would receive
if I were caught, I quickly walked away, confident because I,
at least briefly, had observed another clandestina operation.
4. For a similar account of high
gains from trade and seemingly irrational consumption of profits
in Mexico City, refer to Oscar Lewis' Children of Sanchez (1961).
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